By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
What’s Italian fare without meatballs, cheesy pizzas and antipasto platters laden with strips of streaky prosciutto?
Still excellent (and maybe even better!) according to Chef Lorenzo Petrachi, creator, co-founder and king of the kitchen at don Fred. We caught up with the cook behind Newtown’s newest plant-based Italian eatery to learn more about his meatless mission and the quest to make vegan food a vibe.
Hailing from the Northern Italian port city of Trieste, Lorenzo's journey into the culinary world began with the inspiration of his self-made Chef parents, who instilled in him a passion for simple ingredients and delicious flavours from a young age.
However, he officially entered the hospitality industry as a bright-eyed 18-year-old, with his front-of-house training in Italy laying the foundation for the culinary expertise that was to follow for decades. Including a nine-year stint as Floor Manager at Gigi Pizzeria in Newtown.
As he reflects on his career, Lorenzo pinpoints the choice to personally adopt a plant-based lifestyle as one of the most powerful influences on his professional growth.
"Motivated by a revelation about the impact of animal products on health and ethics, I made the change to become vegan in 2014. I’d come across some information that had turned me off animal products. I felt as though I’d been lied to. Upon discovering all of this information, within the week, I’d adopted the new lifestyle change and I never looked back,” he says.
"I was therefore inspired to focus on plant-based Italian cuisine because I thought that Italian street food was missing in the heart of Sydney and what a great opportunity it would be for me to do it and do it my way! Being Italian, it’s a great pleasure to be able to redesign and evolve our food culture.”
The birth of don Fred, a plant-based Italian restaurant, was driven by Lorenzo's desire to introduce the concept of ‘Paninoteca’ – a beloved Northern Italian street food tradition - to Sydney.
Observing the scarcity of authentic Italian street food establishments since his move to Sydney in 2001, Lorenzo envisioned a haven for comfort food with a contemporary bar atmosphere that aligns with Sydney's culinary standards.
Addressing the scepticism around plant-based Italian cuisine, Lorenzo emphasises the adaptability of Italian cuisine over the centuries.
"Italian cuisine has been evolving for thousands of years, recreating itself over and over again with the needs of the times. So while eating animal products may be a tradition, in this era, I believe cooking animal products is outdated. I believe a part of the traditional Italian culture is also moving forward and adapting to the current climate. I aim to adopt the new, current priority of sustainability, combined with the natural simple flavours of the Italian cuisine as instilled in me as a child.”
Today, the menu at don Fred draws heavily from Lorenzo's upbringing in Trieste, particularly influenced by the Northern region's culinary delights. Dishes like ragu, polenta, focaccia, meatballs and paninis are lovingly crafted with plant-based alternatives, showcasing a commitment to authenticity without compromising on flavour.
When it comes to creating plant-based versions of traditional Italian dishes, Lorenzo's approach is rooted in using fresh ingredients and classic Italian cooking methods. Grilled vegetables, freshly baked focaccia and soft bread rolls, combined with the best plant-based alternatives in the market, result in a menu that boasts both quality and credibility.
Drawing from his extensive knowledge gained during his work at Gigi’s, Lorenzo ensures that each dish surpasses the taste and presentation of its non-vegan counterpart.
"The only challenge I’ve come across is perhaps recreating the same traditional Italian flavours with plant-based ingredients,” he says. "However, even so, I would use the word ‘excitement’ rather than challenge. Being able to utilise my creativity and recreating the flavours of my childhood, in a recipe that is completely plant-based, is the best part of my job.”
Signature dishes at don Fred, such as the 'Polpetz' (roasted olive meatballs) and 'Fried Konjamari' (calamari rings made from konjac roots), have become customer favourites. Lorenzo's meticulous recipe development ensures that these dishes not only cater to the plant-bases palate but stand out as extraordinary culinary experiences for all diners.
Innovation permeates Lorenzo's culinary journey as he discovers and experiments with new vegan ingredients and alternatives.
"Every new substitute I come across is exciting to me, especially when it is a particular ingredient I had never considered using before. A few examples include aquafaba, watermelon seeds, seaweed or zucchini skin. Whether I’ll use them or not is another story!”
The response from customers at don Fred has been overwhelmingly positive, with many plant-based patrons expressing their delight in the flavours and returning for more.
"Most of our customers often tell me they are not 100% vegan, but they enjoy the food just as much and it goes to show, since they keep coming back!” beams Lorenzo.
