AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE - Home of the Chef Hat Awards
Anthony Power
Born:
Manly, NSW.
History:
I got my start in the industry as a waiter working at the Terrace on Pittwater, the fine dining restaurant at Newport Arms.
After two years there, I realised a career in Environmental Science wasn’t for me and an opportunity to take on an apprenticeship in the restaurant had opened up, so I took it.
I moved around the kitchen and finished my apprenticeship there before the hotel closed for renovations.
My sister had settled with her young family in Perth and I visited. We took a little road trip down to Yallingup and I was hooked on the beaches, bush, paddocks, great wine, great food – what more could you want.
I was lucky to land a Chef de Partie role working under a young Chef who was making a name for himself, Seth James. I worked at Will’s Domain for 3 years were Seth fuelled my interest in foraging, fermentation and local produce.
Seth’s plates were unique, dynamic and full of flavour. Working there I met my now wife Krystal, she was on a working holiday. We began a long-distance relationship when she moved back to Taiwan and I moved to Perth to be closer to the airport and prepare for her return.
Word had travelled down south about a new restaurant serving indigenous produce in a chic, modern setting – Wildflower – I wanted in.
I found my bearings in there working closely with Matt Satori.
Wildflower is a beast of a kitchen - you have to be organised, keep the fire hot, be fast, and have a light touch at the same time.
Matt taught the team about how to extract flavours from native ingredients his dishes were balanced, refined, purposeful. I learnt how to lead a small team and run a larger kitchen section. After 3 years I was keen for a new challenge.
Since moving to Western Australia, I had always enjoyed day trips to Swan Valley, Krystal and I had begun building a new home nearby so when a Sous Chef role became available in Wild Swan at Mandoon Estate I was keen to get the role.
Under the guidance of Michael Hartnell, I was soon putting my dishes on the menu and running the savoury side of the kitchen. I have been promoted to Head Chef and am quite proud of the team we have built and the food that we turn out.
At Wild Swan, we aim to feature great Australian produce and native ingredients served with modern techniques.
Have you always wanted to be a Chef?
I was the youngest of five kids in my family. The dinner table was where we all got together, sat, ate, talked, laughed. Mum’s spag bol was the first dish I learnt; we all loved her Sunday roasts or cooking a BBQ with Dad in the backyard.
James my eldest brother started cooking proper Indian-style curries and then Chantelle started to cook Thai food, Dad used to kick her outside when she roasted shrimp paste or filled the house with the smell of fish sauce.
These new flavours were coming to the dinner table and we were all excited to try the next dish, taste a different cuisine. For me it wasn’t a straight walk into a professional kitchen but it was bound to happen eventually.
How would you define your style?
It’s always a work in progress. In the kitchen I try to lead by example. When it comes to the plated dishes, I try to highlight great, sustainable, local produce. I really enjoy using Australian natives to mimic classic food pairings.
I find different cuisines tell stories of different histories and cultures, I use modern techniques but try to pay homage at the same time.
What is your feature flavour these days?
Got to be anise, love the floral notes of anise myrtle, the savoury hum of star anise and fennel seed, the comfort of a braised fennel bulb or the clean and crisp shaved bulb.
Obsessive-compulsive about?
I’ve always respected Chefs who don’t comprise, don’t cut corners and keep a cool head. I think we all thrive in a clean, organised, enjoyable workplace.
Your greatest culinary influence:
Bourdain.
What do you love about this business?
The flow state of a busy kitchen, the days where things go to plan. I remember being a first-year apprentice and looking a this 4-metre long spice shelf and thinking this is cool.
An ingredient you can’t live without?
The humble chicken egg is so versatile. A kitchen without mayonnaise and Hollandaise, anglaise and chawanmushi, egg whites for meringues or clarification, salted egg yolks and slow-cooked egg yolks! I would certainly miss the egg in a kitchen.
Most ‘eyebrow-raising’ menu item?
A pickled cherry tomato can pack a pretty surprising flavour punch.
Signature dish:
It's our amuse - we tweaked a duck liver parfait recipe but used Leeuwin Coast akoya meat instead and then we made a purée of Coffin Bay Pacific oysters and used that in the batter of this petite crumpet.
We top it with shallots pickled with native thyme, Japanese sea grapes for a hit on umami and Yarra Valley salmon roe for a saline pop.
Tell us something no one knows about you?
I like my sugar with coffee and cream - and that’s in the form of a Tim Tam slammer with hot coffee and a dash of whipping cream, it’s good.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time?
Planning on staying in Perth for the time being. I would be very happy to be working at Mandoon Estate.
We offer diverse and premium experiences; just this year we have had Dale Tilbrook and Maalinup Gallery take residency in the old homestead building. I am really excited to learn from her, the depth of her knowledge is amazing.
I really feel like the Swan Valley is starting to put its name on the foodie destination map and it’s a real privilege to be a part of it.
Wild Swan at Mandoon Estate
Contemporary dining overlooking manicured gardens beckons guests to Wild Swan at Mandoon Estate on Harris Road in Caversham. This elegant restaurant mixes clean lines with colourful abstract artwork as diners relax at tables set with white linen, or chill out on tan leather couches with a drink and ponder modern, innovative a la carte and degustation options. Combining classic techniques with the finest local and seasonal produce, dishes have been designed to match the estate’s award-winning wine and beer. Expect choices like kangaroo tartare, smoked emu ham, Davidson plum and black barley to start, or spanner crab, fermented corn and Geraldton wax; before lamb rump, eggplant, smoked sheep’s yoghurt, kombu and jus. Finish with pistachio, orange blossom, local honey and a lace tuile.
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