AUSTRALIAN GOOD FOOD GUIDE - Home of the Chef Hat Awards
Struan Preston
Born:
Edinburgh, Scotland.
History:
My parents had a small boutique hotel in Edinburgh, I started as a kitchen hand and as is commonly the path moved up the chain over a couple of years. I took on a few different roles looking for something that really interested me. I found that at Kyloe – a premium steakhouse in Edinburgh with a focus on Scottish beef and seafood.
Moving to New Zealand on a working holiday visa, I was fortunate to land a job at The Grill in SkyCity where I worked with a truly inspiring and gifted team. I learnt a lot there in a short space of time and we earned 2 Hats which was an all-new experience.
I moved to Queenstown and worked at Botswana Butchery for a couple of months before moving to Australia, where I got a job with Atlantic to work at the Australian Grand Prix, which was a truly eye-opening experience.
As I was on a working holiday visa and required to do farm work to be eligible for a second year, I got a job at Signature Oysters in Batemans Bay. It was a great experience to work on the other side of the produce fence, particularly with such a premium product.
I have been involved in opening a few venues in Australia and enjoy the rush of that unknown; having to set everything up is a pretty unique challenge - most recently opening Bar Beirut last year. We were awarded Canberra’s favourite Middle Eastern Restaurant earlier this year, which we were all very appreciative of.
Have you always wanted to be a Chef?
I didn’t have any desire to be a Chef growing up. I had started as a kitchen hand around 11-years-old and was more focused on playing sport and didn’t have a solid grasp of what I wanted to do. I knew I would probably be involved in hospitality as I had grown up in it.
How would you define your style?
I would say my style is relaxed, simple but fun and creative food. To me dining out should allow people to experience something they generally can’t do themselves at home, but they can still recognise what they are being served.
What is your feature flavour these days?
Pomegranate. We’ve used it widely through the menu as both fresh arils and molasses, it is very versatile.
Obsessive-compulsive about?
I get a bit wild about seasoning, there are so many ways to enhance food through seasoning and building layers into that is the challenge.
Your greatest culinary influence?
Johnon MacDonald now at Koji in Wellington, New Zealand. I worked with Johnon for five or so years and learnt a huge amount from him, in and out of the kitchen.
What do you love about this business?
It’s constantly evolving, trends come and go, new economic and environmental pressures arise and must be overcome. However, the overall goal is always the same – to provide a positive hospitality experience.
An ingredient you can’t do without?
Our oysters have been a frontrunner since opening. We serve them with a pomegranate mignonette and yoghurt pear. I’ve been told repeatedly by customers that ‘don’t like oysters’ how much they enjoyed them.
A lot of that is down to the outstanding quality of the produce we receive from Signature Oysters and we do a little work to enhance and balance the flavour.
Signature dish?
We’ve become synonymous for a couple of items, but our take on Greg and Lucy Malouf’s ‘Lebanese Dirty Rice’ has been a crowd favourite and probably one of our most requested recipe items.
Why should diners visit your restaurant and what can they expect?
Bar Beirut is quite a unique venue. We open as a restaurant and during the course of the evening morph into a lively cocktail bar, trading until 4am with burlesque and belly dance performers.
We have incredible customers and great regulars, who bring such a positive vibe to the space. Our bar team is very talented and serves up inspired and creative cocktails that are always pushing the boundaries.
What do you think COVID has taught restaurants and Chefs about their diners and the industry in general?
I noticed how resilient and flexible the industry can be while simultaneously being very fragile. Socialising over food and drink for most people is a basic need and a greatly enjoyed activity and it was awesome to see people rally around their favourite venues in order to help keep them alive during lockdowns.
All the while the industry was haemorrhaging staff who were unable to stay in Australia – there simply wasn’t enough people to fill the gaps. We’re still in the middle of a staffing crisis and while everyone’s appetite to go out has returned, the staff to support that need has not.
Tell us something no one knows about you?
I don’t like domestic cooking. I get really frustrated because everything takes so long, there’s no space and my equipment is sub-par.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time?
I’d like to have progressed up the management ladder and take on more responsibility for more people and become a better mentor to junior Chefs.
Bar Beirut
midweek belly dancing and burlesque fun as you chill out with a refreshing cocktail, such as a Wasabi Martini, in surrounds of banquette seating, moody lighting and a well-stocked bar. Embark on a memorable culinary journey with kingfish tartare and mandarin dressing, or sticky glazed lamb ribs with olive dukkah; before larger plates of charred chicken, dill oil, slaw and sides of chips and pumpkin with goats’ curd. Vegetarians opt for roasted eggplant, lentil, mushroom and zhoug with a side of tabouli; finish indulgently with a decadent dessert of fig and date cake with Almaza glaze and whisky caramel.
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