By Joseph Steele.
The mere mention of escargot can send shivers down the spine of the uninitiated, or spark a gastronomic glimmer in the eyes of the gourmand. As humble as these molluscs are, they have undergone centuries of refinement - a transformation so profound they have left their earthy trails on the hearts of the culinary world.
Ascending to culinary stardom from a humble street snack to the gilded plates of the elite, it’s time we dive into the deliciously decadent journey of escargot.
Believe it or not, there was a time when the now-esteemed escargot was merely a squishy street snack for the common folk. Fattened on milk and honey, for the Ancient Romans they were the equivalent of street tacos. Cheap, abundant and irresistibly tasty. However, their real rise to elevated heights began a few centuries later in the gently rolling hills of Burgundy.
Oblivious to their fate as gourmet icons, the humble snail was thrust into the culinary limelight. Once a forager’s delight, soon became the plat du jour of the French bourgeoisie. Yes, these snails with their unassuming presence found themselves luxuriously bathed in butter, garlic and parsley – forever altering their social status from garden-variety molluscs to the darlings of Haute Cuisine.
But what do they taste like? Earthy, slightly chewy with garlic and parsley providing a vibrant counterpoint to the snail’s innate flavour. Plus, being doused in butter, it’s impossible for anything to taste bad! In its essence, escargot is a delightfully delicate morsel. Starting the cooking process in a bubbling bath of broth rich with herbs, wine and aromatics, before being nestled back in their shells, set to bask in the oven until the garlic butter bubbles and browns, infusing each bite with an otherworldly richness.
Consuming the escargot is an exercise - one that should be elegant, but for novices, can be rather daunting. Armed with a special fork and a set of snail tongs (no need to click them twice before using, they work), the diner secures the shell and plucks the snail from its golden abode. The reward is a bite dripping with aromatic butter. It’s a moment of triumph, a nod to the escargot’s noble past and glistening beacon of its future.
The experience wouldn’t be complete without an exquisite wine. Look no further than the region from where this dish originated; Burgundy! A buttery Chardonnay is always a safe bet, however, if you are going for a lemon-heavy escargot, a Sauvignon Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay is best. If you can get your hands on a crisp Chablis, you will be in gastronomic heaven.
France has taken on this slippery dish as a matter of national pride - a vision of culinary ingenuity and an unexpected sweetheart of the upper echelons. Each year, millions of snails are consumed during festive occasions from Bastille Day to intimate family gatherings. The dish has also made the trek internationally (albeit a slow one) from Tokyo to New York, each iteration pays homage to its French roots while adding a local twist.
In the end, our love affair with escargot is one of transformation and triumph. From the cobbled Roman streets to the lush tables of French aristocracy, the snail’s journey is truly spectacular. Next time you encounter these garlicky gems, have a crack. Try it. You’re taking part in a centuries-long tradition and may find yourself enjoying one of history’s most audacious glow-ups.
If you are ready to embrace the escargot and let the slimy become sublime, go no further than this stunning recipe from Chez Olivier's Chef, Sylvain Bernard.
