By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
It may be thousands of kilometres away from the region that inspired its menu, but Surry Hills restaurant Nour (translation light) has truly lit the way for modern Middle Eastern cuisine in Sydney.
While the eatery has yet to disappoint diners seeking an elevated approach to the iconic fare of the Levant, the appointment of Ibrahim Kasif as Executive Chef signals an exciting evolution for the restaurant. With a passion for traditional flavours and a commitment to innovation, Ibrahim is on a mission to honour the rich culinary heritage of the Middle East while adding his unique twist.
A taste for tradition
When asked how he plans to innovate while respecting the deep-rooted heritage of Middle Eastern cuisine, Ibrahim emphasises the importance of tradition as his starting point:
"I am always grounded by tradition,” he states. "I love the idea of homely and familiar flavours to create nostalgia in my food.” This grounding allows him to reinterpret classic dishes creatively while maintaining their traditional foundations.
Ibrahim's approach involves preserving the simplicity and humility that are central to Middle Eastern cuisine. "Middle Eastern food at its core is humble and simple,” he explains. "Traditionally, to many’s surprise, spices are used sparingly and they champion the finest and freshest produce.”
This ethos will be reflected in the dishes at Nour, allowing the natural flavours of the ingredients to shine.
Photo credit: @jiwonkaeshoots.
Mezza, a hallmark of Middle Eastern dining, is a particular focus for Ibrahim: "Mezza in the Middle East is always the most interesting, colourful and delicious part of the meal. We can have a lot of fun with reinterpreting mezza,” he shares. This versatility allows him to play with flavours and presentations, offering a fresh take on beloved classics.
One standout example is his raw kingfish tabouli. "This has the most natural affinity,” he notes, describing the dish as a vibrant salad with heightened citrus tones. "A beautiful, fresh, well-made tabouli is parsley, mint, tomato, burghul and lots of lemon and olive oil. You can shamelessly ‘drink’ the salad juices.” By adapting traditional concepts to contemporary dining, Ibrahim showcases the adaptability of Middle Eastern flavours.
Culture, classics and creativity
Ibrahim’s own Turkish heritage plays a significant role in his culinary style, influencing his approach to the menu at Nour. "My disposition is always Turkish tones; however, I feel liberated to think outside the scope of Turkish flavours and delve into the nuances of the Middle East,” he says. This liberation fosters a creative collaboration with Nour's owner, Ibby Moubadder, allowing Ibrahim to weave his ideas into a shared vision.
The development of a new dish begins with a humble foundation. "It starts with delicious, humble dishes and me wanting to capture the essence of it,” he explains. "Our batata harra is the crispiest little potato morsel, our house whipped toum and fermented chilli captures the traditional dish in one mouthful as a cheeky driving snack.”
Photo credit: @jiwonkaeshoots.
Ibrahim emphasises the importance of seasonality in his cooking. "A marketplace in Lebanon or Turkey is not for the faint-hearted. It is fierce and competitive\ and you have to be prepared,” he remarks. Drawing inspiration from what is in season, he aims to create dishes that resonate with the freshness of the ingredients. "They eat simply with good salt and delicious olive oil. They don’t complicate it by putting za’atar and dukkah on everything and saying it’s Middle Eastern cooking,” he adds.
This dedication to freshness is exemplified in one of his signature dishes: a beautifully grilled yellowfin tuna. "We serve it on braised green beans exactly how a Lebanese or Turkish mum would cook them,” Ibrahim explains, capturing the essence of nostalgia while delivering modern flavours.
A commitment to community
Ibrahim also honours the communal aspect of Middle Eastern cuisine. "Sharing food is the central tenet of Middle Eastern food, which is biblical in tradition,” he notes. At Nour, he encourages a progressive dining experience where dishes are served to share rather than in structured courses. "Let them get a bit of everything on the plate and experience the real way Middle Eastern food should be eaten,” he adds, reinforcing the concept of communal enjoyment.
In a cuisine often misunderstood as merely kebabs and dips, Ibrahim feels a deep love for traditional recipes. "Honouring the past and learning the huge repertoire of regions gives you a lot of artillery to be creative,” he saya, highlighting the importance of understanding the cultural nuances that define Middle Eastern cooking.
Photo credit: @jiwonkaeshoots.
As for dishes he dreams of reimagining, Ibrahim has his sights set on Middle Eastern pastries like fatayer, a spinach-filled bread. "It will be great to reimagine those flavours and use them as vessels for what’s modern and in-vogue right now…maybe with lots of anchovies and chilli,” he musea.
Ultimately, Ibrahim believes the essence of Middle Eastern hospitality must shine through in every aspect of the dining experience at Nour.
"The food needs to have a sense of generosity and plentifulness and service needs to be warming, welcoming and caring,” he explains. This commitment to hospitality is at the core of what Nour represents and Ibrahim is excited about the journey ahead as he crafts a menu that honours tradition while embracing innovation.
In the hands of Chef Ibrahim Kasif, Nour is poised to continue its legacy of exceptional Middle Eastern cuisine, blending tradition with contemporary flair to create an unforgettable dining experience.
