By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
At Izgara, Turkish cuisine transcends the traditional and while you won’t find the kind of kebabs you’d typically tuck into as a 20-something headed home from an evening of adventures, we suspect that its decadent baklava cheesecake will more than make up for it.
Given that the ocakbasi-style (Turkish for grill) diner had built up a quiet cult following during its 18ish-month tenure at its original Potts Point location, many were surprised to hear that it had made the move to Clarence Street in the heart of Sydney's CBD, bringing with it a new menu.
However, owners Efe Topuzlu and Ozgur Sefkatli have not wavered in their vision of redefining Australian perceptions of Turkish fare by infusing classic Istanbul flavours with a contemporary twist.
An evening at Izgara - but don't limit yourself to an after-dark dinner, the central city location makes it an equally excellent option for a work lunch - is a feast for all your senses.
The decor of the 50-seater is a rich visual tapestry showing Turkey’s cultural heritage, with marble-accented bars and 250 bottles of mostly Turkish wines framing the large front corner windows.
The aroma of peppers grilling in the open-view kitchen is an onslaught to your sense of scent and the sound of the sizzling skewered meats, a soundtrack so authentic you’d be legitimately forgiven should you mistakenly feel yourself lost in the streets of the Grand Bazaar.
The real star at Izgara is the innovative menu best enjoyed shared. Here, you will find fresh Turkish pide bread from Malika Bakehouse (soft, puffy and non-negotiable if you seek to soak up your sauces).
Delve into small, pan-fried squares of halloumi cheese topped with chopped walnuts, sun-dried tomatoes and currants and drenched in a delicious honey and olive oil dressing, along with caramelised, over-roasted cauliflower sprinkled with ras-el-hanout spices and served on a bed of tahini pumpkin purée.
Don’t go past Yamba prawns drenched in dill and herb oil, char-grilled chicken kebabs with pickled cabbage, peppers and creamy garlic toum sauce and, the Instagram-endorsed baklava cheesecake - featuring filo crust, an incredibly decadent cream cheese and cream filling and a generous layer of vibrant green crushed pistachio nuts.
Cocktail connoisseurs will also be seriously spoilt for choice with must-sips including the Sour Cherry Margarita - made with Don Julio reposado tequila, triple sec, agave, lime and cherry juice.
From Istanbul to inner city to the epicentre of Sydney’s CBD, Izgara has travelled many a taste-filled route, but at any destination ultimately delivers an epicurean experience so good, we’d be happy to be grilled about it.
