By Leigh O’Connor.
Growing up, it was inevitable Stuart McGill would follow family footsteps and head into the hospitality industry.
With a Grandfather as a Chef and a Mum who was always cooking, Stuart has always been around food and now heads the restaurant team at Etsu Izakaya on the Gold Coast.
Open the barn door at Etsu on Gold Coast Highway in Mermaid Beach to discover a magical mystery tour of Japanese share-plate dining. Moody surrounds of neon signage, walls plastered with photographs and a long, low-lit dining space make this izakaya-style restaurant an ideal place for a romantic encounter, or chilling out with friends for after-work drinks.
"I always knew I would be in hospitality,” he says. "I wasn’t the most studious of kids, so when I was nearing the end of high school and considering what I was going to do for a career, a Chef’s apprenticeship seemed like the logical choice.
"I started on the fryer section at a local pub and then progressed to more interesting and challenging roles.”
Working with culinary icon Tetsuya Wakuda fuelled his Japanese cooking prowess and Stuart says the legendary Chef is his greatest culinary influence.
Defining his style as flavour-driven, smoke and mirrors aren’t really in the picture as Stuart prefers simple flavours and not over-complicating dishes.
"When you dine at Etsu you can expect a delicious adventure into Japanese casual dining, guided by welcoming and attentive staff.”
While the restaurant’s signature dish is shio koji marinated Wagyu flank steak with water spinach and seeded wasabi mustard, Stuart shares a tempura recipe with AGFG in honour of National Tempura Day on Saturday, January 7.
Tempura Moreton Bay bugs with green chilli and amazu dipping sauce is Etsu in its most honest form.
"Using fresh local Moreton Bay bugs and a super light tempura batter, we really elevate the sweetness and flavour of the bugs.”
Stuart says the past couple of years have taught restaurants how much they need their customers and how much diners need them.
"What’s better than enjoying great food in a fun and approachable environment.”
As for the future, Stuart says he hopes to be running his own venue in the next five years, either in Australia or back in Japan; just don’t show him any puppy videos if you don’t want to see his sentimental side!
