By Leigh O’Connor.
The ocean is a beautiful, yet extremely powerful force and a therapeutic place for many.
On a mission to surf the biggest waves around the globe, WA’s Kerby Brown knows all too well what it takes to face these monsters.
"I feel more comfortable in the water than I do on land, when I’m in the ocean I feel at peace and free,” he tells AGFG. "It gives me so much, it keeps my life balanced and gives me purpose.
"The sense of peace makes me a better human, a better partner and better father to my children. I couldn’t imagine life without it.”
Releasing his movie ‘Facing Monsters’ in 2021, Kerby says he wanted to show a real raw, honest look at his life, to share his love of the ocean and how much it’s helped him. As well as surfing, the film discusses deeply personal issues such as addiction and mental health.
"It was important for me to open up about my personal struggles so people who are struggling or dealing with their own issues can have a chance to relate and see there is a better way forward.
"My hope was to encourage or inspire on any level, follow your heart and do something you are passionate about. The ability to impact people in a positive way is all I could have hoped for.”
As the movie shows, life as a big wave surfer has its perils with many injuries and scary moments documented.
"The injuries I sustained in the doco are a firm reminder of how dangerous these waves really are. I’d have to say, a couple of the shallow, Southern Ocean slabs that break in the middle of the ocean stand out for me as being the scariest.”
When he is not in the water, Kerby is cooking up a storm as an ambassador for Traeger Grills.
"I have always loved food and the creative side of cooking really appeals to me. I cook at home every day, trying out all different styles of grilling, smoking and baking on my trusty Traeger Pro 780, experimenting with creating different flavours with different rubs and spices.
"My Mum has always been a really good cook, she introduced me to different cuisines pretty young and I started travelling the world in my early teens so I guess I picked up different recipes and tastes along the way.”
After a big day in the ocean, Kerby says nothing can beat a juicy steak – a good source of protein to act as fuel and work on repairing your muscles.
"Usually, I’ll be feeling pretty tired by the end of the day, which is why I love using my Traeger to just toss the steak on the grill and hook it up to my phone using the Wi-Fire technology, so I barely have to lift a finger.”
He dishes up his mouth-watering take on Surf and Turf with this recipe for Wagyu rump, garlic chilli prawns and sweet potato chips – delicious, filling and the best meal after a day at the beach.
Kerby offers some advice for those young surfers contemplating making a career out of the sport:
"Do it for the right reasons. If you are passionate about it, go for it – dedicate yourself and always follow your dream.”
