By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Among the many festive culinary rituals celebrated worldwide, the Feast of the Seven Fishes shore-ly stands out as one of the most delicious! Rooted in Italian heritage and now wildly popular among Italian-American communities, this feast offers a seafood-centric spread that's as rich in history as it is in flavour.
Here, Vincenzo Mazzotta, owner of Sydney Italian restaurant Cucinetta shares why it continues to capture hearts - and appetites - around the world:
A tradition of faith, fasting and food
The Feast of the Seven Fishes, or La Vigilia (The Vigil), has its origins in Southern Italy, where the devout Catholic practice of abstaining from meat on Christmas Eve was strictly observed. Instead of beef or poultry, seafood became the centrepiece of the holiday meal. The custom likely developed in coastal regions of Italy, where fresh fish was abundant and naturally aligned with religious dietary restrictions.
While the number seven is iconic - symbolising the seven sacraments, the seven days of creation or the seven virtues - the exact count of dishes varies depending on the family. Some stick to seven courses; others go as high as nine, 12 or even 13, with each family interpreting the tradition in its own unique way.
"Despite its roots in Italy, the elaborate nature of the feast as we know it today is largely a creation of Italian-Americans, who transformed this humble vigil into a grand celebration,” says Vincenzo.
A celebration of Italian-American identity
For many Italian Americans, the Feast of the Seven Fishes isn’t just about food - it’s about connection, nostalgia and identity. When millions of Italians emigrated to the United States during the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, they brought their culinary traditions with them. Over time, these customs evolved in their new home.
"In Italy, La Vigilia was often a simpler affair, with perhaps one or two seafood dishes served alongside other staples like pasta, bread and vegetables,” says Vincenzo. However, Italian-American families, keen to honour their heritage and celebrate their newfound prosperity, expanded the meal into a lavish multi-course feast featuring a variety of seafood preparations.
The result? A dazzling array of dishes, from shrimp, scampi and lobster fra diavolo to fried calamari and salted cod.
The popularity of this tradition among Italian-Americans has even led to its adoption by those outside the community. Today, the Feast of the Seven Fishes is celebrated in countless households, restaurants and culinary events across the United States, drawing food lovers of all backgrounds to the table.
A seafood spectacle
What makes the Feast of the Seven Fishes so irresistible is its focus on seafood - a category of food that feels inherently special and celebratory. The dishes themselves vary widely depending on family recipes and regional influences, but they often showcase the versatility of seafood in Italian cooking.
Picture platters of golden, crispy fried smelts served alongside spaghetti tossed in garlicky clam sauce. Add to that a heaping dish of baccala (salt cod) in a rich tomato stew, succulent baked scallops and tender grilled octopus. For dessert? Perhaps a slice of panettone or a few almond-studded biscotti to round out the meal.
Each dish is prepared with care, honouring techniques passed down through generations. While the flavours are undoubtedly the highlight, the feast is as much about the communal act of sharing food as it is about the menu itself.
While the celebration is not as common among Australian Italians, Vincenzo encourages Aussies to take advantage of the abundance of fresh local seafood on offer this time of year and whip up their own versions of The Feast of the Seven Fishes. His nominations for the best mod-Oz Christmas menu must-haves include:
•Oysters with thinly sliced eschalots and red wine vinegar.
•Fresh prawns served with avocado smash, dressed with lemon and chilli.
•Tuna raw with basil, garlic, chilli sauce and lime zest.
•Fried calamari and tartare sauce.
•Boiled octopus salad with potato and olives.
•Classic spaghetti vongole.
•Grilled fish with lemon and garlic oil.
•A tradition of my family is to make pizza dough filled with anchovies and fry it!
