By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Cooking with fire is more than just a method; it's an art form, deeply embedded in culinary traditions across the world.
Few understand this better than Jose Saulog, Executive Chef at Franca, Parlar and Armorica - the Surry Hills-based Parisian-inspired brasserie featuring a uniquely positioned menu centred around a wood-fired grill.
Here, Jose has made wood-fired cooking a hallmark of his culinary style - drawing from a wealth of international experience, shaped by stints in Canada, Germany and Australia, that has allowed him to make fire-cooking his signature style.
"Every Chef loves playing with fire,” Jose says, capturing the primal allure of flame-cooked food. However, for him, it's not just about the fun - it’s about the distinct, comforting flavours that wood-fire imparts - a technique that is central to the French-focused menu at Armorica - where each dish carries a unique, smoky depth, setting it apart from the ordinary.
Jose’s mastery of fire begins with technique. He swears by spray bottles of oil for controlling smoke and flame and uses both direct and indirect heat to achieve everything from the perfect sear to slow rendering.
His tool kit includes heavy-duty tongs, wire racks and cast-iron pans, all essential for withstanding the intense heat. The Josper grills at Armorica, equipped with a built-in wheel to adjust the height of the grill, give him precise control over temperature - a vital factor when working with fire.
Taming the flames isn't just about tools - it's about understanding the nature of fire. Jose explains that managing the flame's intensity through careful use of charcoal or wood and adjusting the grill’s proximity to the heat, are key to getting the desired results.
"A closer grill delivers higher heat while stepping back allows for gentler cooking, striking the perfect balance between char and tenderness,” he says.
What sets fire-cooked food apart, according to Jose, is the flavour profile it creates. The smoke and char add complexity to ingredients, drawing out their natural sweetness while introducing a subtle bitterness that balances the dish. A sprinkle of salt flakes or a squeeze of citrus can enhance these flavours even further, creating a harmony that’s hard to replicate with other methods.
Jose’s love for fire extends to a variety of ingredients - meat, seafood, vegetables, even bread – and he nominates his favourite fire-cooked dish as a simple steak.
"The simplicity of grilling these items, paired with thoughtful garnishes, can elevate a dish to new heights,” says Jose. However, he does acknowledge that as rewarding as the finished product may be, cooking with fire is not without its challenges.
Common mistakes include not heating the grill sufficiently, leading to food sticking or overheating, which can burn the surface without cooking the inside. Another frequent issue is grilling overly fatty foods, which can cause excessive flames and burning. Jose advises paying close attention to these factors to avoid such pitfalls.
"Safety is also paramount when cooking with fire - with proper ventilation essential to manage the smoke produced and respecting the heat is crucial. If you treat it poorly, it will treat you worse,” he says, reflecting on his career and recalling an early experience with a wood-fired pizza oven.
"I quickly learned to respect the high temperature,” he says, recounting a minor injury that reinforced the need for constant attention and focus when working with intense heat.
Despite the growing popularity of wood-fired cooking in modern kitchens, Jose remains grounded in its primal essence. Simple tools, fire and a thoughtful approach can produce extraordinary results. His advice to home cooks? Start small, perhaps with pots and pans on gas burners and always invest in durable, heavy-duty equipment.
Ultimately for Chef Jose cooking with fire is not just about creating delicious food - it's about mastering a tradition that has shaped culinary history. With a little patience, the right tools and a respect for the flame, anyone can tap into the magic of fire and create something truly memorable.
