By Marie-Antoinette Issa.
Born in picturesque Vicenza, in Northern Italy, one of Chef Nicola Ronconi’s earliest memories is to be expected - making fresh pasta with his grandmothers at home.
However, it is a surprising second one that may have been equally instrumental in encouraging his pursuit of cooking as a profession, leading to his new venue Nico Restaurant in Cammeray.
"When I was about eight years old, I remember making green Jell-O with my Mum. It was liquid when we put it in the mould and placed it in the fridge. After my afternoon nap, I woke up and flipped the Jell-O and it was solid. I was shocked and couldn’t understand how something liquid just a few hours earlier had become solid. I think that curiosity is what pushed me to wear a Chef jacket,” he tells AGFG.
Regardless of whether it was gnocchi or jelly, it is clear that Nicola’s formative experiences set the stage for a career driven by a relentless pursuit of excellence and his professional culinary journey has truly been a global one.
His CV spans Michelin-starred kitchens in his home country, fine dining establishments in London (such as Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck ) and hatted restaurants in Sydney: "Including all the Italian eateries and functions for the UPG company, now known as Hunter St. Hospitality.”
"I then became the Head Chef for Matteo Downtown but left after the second COVID lockdown to start doing private Chef functions. At that stage, I was already planning Nico Restaurant in my mind,” he adds.
It is this combination of experience and innovation that goes some way towards explaining the expertise evident in every dish he creates at his new contemporary Italian eatery in the heart of North Sydney.
"Authentic Italian cuisine is known for its simplicity. Rather than relying on complicated techniques and numerous ingredients, Italian dishes typically consist of only a few carefully selected components, which is what I wanted to create,” says Nicola, of his namesake restaurant.
"I didn't want 'just another Italian restaurant’, so we put a lot of effort into the concept and design to ensure Nico stands out."
At the heart of Nico’s menu is the concept of cicchetti, Italian-style tapas, small snacks or finger foods often enjoyed with a glass of wine. This idea is deeply rooted in the Venetian culture that neighboured Nicola as child where locals partook in ‘bacari tours’, hopping from one wine bar to another, sampling different fare along the way.
"Bacari are wine bars where you can grab a little snack or finger food (cicchetto) and a glass of red wine (ombra). These snacks are usually something fried, polenta slices with baccala, or bruschetta with anchovies,” he says.
"I love the idea of going there and tasting different snacks, as each bacaro has its own signature items, giving you the opportunity to experience a variety of flavours and textures. For me, it’s the same at Nico. I want my guests to come here and try as many things as possible so they can leave with a richer experience.”
Today, Nico is a testament to this belief, offering a diverse, dining experience that respects traditional Italian culinary techniques while incorporating innovative twists in the heart of the Harbour City.
For example, the frittella with anchovies - traditionally a large, deep-fried treat with herbs and pieces of anchovies, Nicola’s version is a small ricotta frittella topped with an anchovy fillet, gremolata mayo and lime zest.
Similarly, the zucchini flower with plant-based ricotta and a decadent lemon-based tiramisu which both offer an example of Nicola’s modern interpretations that preserve the essence of the classic dish while adding a contemporary touch.
"Food is my life and, my brain is always thinking about how to fix or create something new. Inspiration can come from anywhere, sparking a domino effect of ideas that eventually culminate in a new dish or menu item.”
While Nicola’s aim is to recreate flavours and textures that delight and surprise, incorporating elements like acidity and crispiness to enhance the overall dining experience, away from the kitchen he is equally committed to creating a memorable dining experience. This is a core principle at Nico, which Nicola says ‘is about feeding people with emotions, not just food’.
"I want our guests to come here, forget about their day, relax and feel like they are on holiday. For me, there are so many cherished memories associated with food; eating becomes complete when shared with friends, family, or partners.
"One beautiful memory stands out from when my wife and I returned to Italy for a holiday after COVID-19. Like everyone else, we hadn’t seen our families for almost three years. We gathered at my family’s house and her Turkish relatives came from Istanbul and Germany to join us for a few days.
"Picture this: 15 Italians and 10 Turks, unable to communicate except through my wife and myself as translators. One evening, I prepared a large seafood fregola and we all dined together in my garden - despite the language barrier, everyone was smiling, enjoying themselves and sharing a once-in-a-lifetime moment - all because we were sharing a meal.”
