By Leigh O’Connor, Editor.
The youngest of five kids, the dinner table was where Anthony Power’s family all got together, sat, ate, talked and laughed. His Mum’s spag bol was the first dish he learnt to cook and all the kids loved her Sunday roasts or cooking a BBQ with Dad in the backyard.
Fast forward to 2023 and this Manly-born Chef now heads the kitchen at Chef-hatted WA dining destination Wild Swan at Mandoon Estate on Harris Road in Caversham.
Contemporary dining overlooking manicured gardens beckons guests to this elegant restaurant, where clean lines mix with colourful abstract artwork as diners relax at tables set with white linen, or chill out on tan leather couches with a drink and ponder modern, innovative à la carte and degustation options.
Combining classic techniques with the finest local and seasonal produce, dishes have been designed to match the estate’s award-winning wine and beer.
Anthony’s eldest brother, James started cooking Indian-style curries and then his sister, Chantelle began cooking Thai food, leading to her being kicked out of the house when roasting shrimp paste or filling the house with the smell of fish sauce.
"These new flavours were coming to the dinner table and we were all excited to try the next dish and taste a different cuisine. For me, it wasn’t a straight walk into a professional kitchen, but it was bound to happen eventually,” Anthony tells AGFG.
"I got my start in the industry working as a waiter at the Terrace on Pittwater, which was the fine dining restaurant at Newport Arms. After two years there, I realised a career in Environmental Science wasn’t for me and an opportunity to take on an apprenticeship in the restaurant opened up, so I took it.”
When his sister and young family moved to Perth, Anthony visited Yallingup and was hooked on the beaches, bush, paddocks, great wine and great food – what more could you want?
Landing a Chef de Partie role working under a young Chef making a name for himself – Seth James – at Will’s Domain, Anthony’s interest in foraging, fermentation and local produce was fuelled.
"Seth’s plates were unique, dynamic and full of flavour. Working there, I met my now wife Krystal, who was on a working holiday. We began a long-distance relationship when she moved back to Taiwan and I moved to Perth to be a bit closer to the airport and prepare for her return.
"Word had travelled south about a new restaurant serving indigenous produce in a chic, modern setting – Wildflower – and I wanted in. I found my bearings there working closely with Matt Satori.”
Anthony says Wildflower is a beast of a kitchen – you have to be organised, you have to keep the fire hot, you have to be fast and have a light touch at the same time.
"Matt taught the team how to extract flavours from native ingredients, his dishes were balanced, refined and purposeful. I learnt how to lead a small team and run a larger section of the kitchen. After three years, I was keen for a new challenge.
"Since moving to WA, I had always enjoyed day trips to the Swan Valley, Krystal and I had begun building a new home nearby so when a Sous Chef role became available at Wild Swan at Mandoon Estate I was keen to get the role.
"At Wild Swan, we aim to feature great Australian produce and native ingredients served with modern techniques.”
Anthony shares his recipe for chewy beetroot, goats’ curd, liquorice, pear and muntries with AGFG readers.
"This dish features rich, creamy goats’ curd from Gidgegannup and muntries from Beverley, paired with different textures of beetroot, walnut liquorice and pear.
"It goes great with a glass of Mandoon Old Vine Grenache with its flavours of raspberry, plum, cherries and undertones of chocolate and aniseed.”
Anthony sees himself staying in Perth for some time, believing the Swan Valley is starting to put its name on the foodie destination map and says it is a privilege to be part of it.
